Disgruntled with Western pork, China wants to go back to black pigs

Taizhou, China | Reuters — Gao Xianghua is a contented mother this 12 months as a result of she is aware of her teenage children will eagerly end the pork stomach she is braising for the Lunar New Yr feast.

Her secret? Chinese language black pork.

“I need my children to eat the great pork I used to have after I was little,” Gao mentioned at a neighbourhood butcher as she ordered 1,000 yuan (C$197) value of black pork ribs, ft and sausages. “Not a budget, low-quality, fast-produced pork that has penetrated my children’ lives.” She plans to rub the pork with Sichuan numbing pepper and salt it earlier than hanging it on her balcony to dry for the vacation.

WHY IT MATTERS: China has been a key marketplace for Canadian pork, although at present Canadian pork imports face a 25 per cent tariff.

Gao, a crab roe vendor, is a member of China’s rising center class who, now not happy with mass-produced pork from imported Western “white pig” breeds, is hungry for premium merchandise. For older patrons particularly, black pork evokes childhood, when black-haired pigs had been raised at dwelling and slaughtered for household gatherings round Lunar New Yr.

Demand for what has been marketed because the “Wagyu of pork,” recognized for its fattier and extra tender texture, is in flip a lifeline for China’s beleaguered pork producers. The premium lower, which is as much as 4 occasions dearer than extra widespread white pork, is without doubt one of the remaining worthwhile segments after years of overcapacity and falling costs on the planet’s largest marketplace for hogs, in accordance with interviews with greater than two dozen meat producers, analysts and lecturers.

‘The one approach out’

The red-braised pork, or hongshao rou, that Gao prepares – a favourite dish of Chairman Mao Zedong, made with caramelized sugar, soy sauce and spices – was a uncommon luxurious earlier than reforms within the Nineteen Eighties and Nineteen Nineties ushered in an extended financial increase and gave many the means to take pleasure in meat greater than a handful of occasions a 12 months. To satisfy that demand, within the Nineteen Nineties China started importing Western varieties that matured in 5 months versus the 12 months that was wanted for Chinese language black pigs. Final 12 months, China – the world’s largest hog producer – slaughtered 720 million pigs. And within the remaining quarter of 2025, it produced 15.7 million metric tons of pork, the best fourth-quarter tally since 2018.

However dimension has turn into a legal responsibility and Mao’s favorite taste was misplaced.

Pork costs have been falling for years on account of weak demand, a stagnating financial system and altering tastes; in December, they declined 14.6 per cent from a 12 months earlier. And rampant overcapacity, triggered partially by the federal government’s response in 2018 to the outbreak of African swine fever, has value the trade income. A serious Chinese language pork producer, Wen Foodstuff Group, in January mentioned its 2025 web revenue fell 40.7 per cent to 46.1 per cent from a 12 months earlier. And Muyuan Meals, the world’s largest hog producer, additionally mentioned it expects its 2025 revenue to fall 12.2 per cent to 17.8 per cent.

For some, black pork provides a approach out.

Yang Xinchun, a 49-year-old pig farmer in Taizhou, about two hours by practice from Shanghai, earned a web revenue of over 1 million yuan (C$196,700) from black pork in 2025. His 1,000 black hogs offset the losses from his herd of 6,000 white pigs.

He mentioned his gamble paid off. He began elevating black hogs in late 2024 after studying that state-owned large Vibrant Meals Group was wanting on the premium market to keep away from losses.

“Individuals come to my butcher retailer each day to be taught from my expertise,” Yang mentioned, referring to different hog producers.

He plans to broaden his herd to fifteen,000 black pigs and his three black pork butcher shops to 40 franchises this 12 months.

“Black pigs are the one approach out for pig producers, particularly small-to-medium producers who had been pressured by falling white pork costs,” mentioned Gao Qinxue, a director on the Chinese language Affiliation of Animal Science and Veterinary Drugs.

The overall variety of black hogs in Yang’s city, Taizhou, elevated to 30,000 in 2025 from 10,000 in 2024 and native pork farmers hope the herd grows to 100,000 by 2027, Gao mentioned.

High Chinese language pork producers are additionally scaling up. In November, Wen Foodstuff informed buyers it goals to turn into the No. 1 Chinese language black pork model and carry these hogs to 5 per cent of its herd by 2027. Pork large New Hope additionally mentioned final fall it was increasing its herd of greater than 150,000 black hogs.

Analysts mentioned they anticipated black hog numbers to rise 50 per cent to 30 million to 32 million between 2024 and 2026, or roughly 5 per cent of all of the pigs in China.

No trade commonplace

Demand exceeds provide in China’s premium pork market by about 15 per cent to twenty per cent, however it’s unclear whether or not black pork can fill the entire hole as a result of producers should develop manufacturers and provide chains on this nascent trade, analysts mentioned. The black pork companies are additionally competing with imported merchandise and Chinese language pork moguls which might be growing premium pork from fast-growing Western breeds.

At this time, China has greater than 4 dozen native black or black-dotted pig breeds which might be bought at various premiums. Producers like Yang elevate black hogs which might be crossbred with Western Berkshire or Duroc strains to speed up pig development whereas sustaining their black coats and meat high quality. The area of interest market may fall into oversupply if too many producers pile in and margins is probably not sustained, observers mentioned.

“In case you flood the market with plenty of black pigs, will folks pay it, or will the worth come down?” mentioned David Casey, senior product growth and provide director on the Pig Enchancment Firm, a serious international breeder. “Most individuals are nonetheless shopping for cheaply raised, low-priced pork.”

“In contrast to Spanish Iberico pork, there is no such thing as a commonplace in China. I may usher in a Hampshire pig, name it black, and I qualify. I’ve heard scientists speak about altering Western pigs’ hair color to black.”

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